Friday, November 30, 2012

the LOKAR E-Brake !

This is a part, a real pain in the ass...

 




The choice for a Lokar E-Brake was very easy. SAFETY !
Hitting the parking brake ( lower left ) in an emergancy situation can be a real challenger... a Challenge I don't want to take if the time is there. Lokar makes a brake that looks old-skool, that does not scream i'm new and has the same look as the Hurst shifter if you compare the boot.
I have to say, this stuff is not cheap... but when you hold the stuff you know you paid for quality and that is something I don't say that often because I'm real skeptic.

As for the installation, LOKAR forgot to mention to take the drive shaft hight in to account. This got me in to trouble from the start. People who are consider this build, please take note to the following !

 The clearance for the brake

First: you have to choose the placement of the brake. You might want to consider placing it a little further forward, rather than to the back. The drive shaft moves up and down when driving and since the cables for the braking are attached beneath it needs the correct amount of clearance.

In my case I bolted the brake as mentioned in the paper work. Good for some scrapes and noises you don't want to hear...
It scraped the drive shaft only a bit... so back to the drawing board.

The second step was to move the mount to the top instead of underneath, good for 2 more mm's of clearance... but still not enough. I decided to put 4- 1mm washers under the bolts and that did the job I had clearance for driving but with some serious driving it banged the shaft again once in a while.

 Seal to prevent water splashing from underneath

brake V1.0

the look underneath, mount and brake cables

The problem is not the rising of the brake, its the floor mats / carpet and all you have to adjust to make it smooth. In my case I moved the entire mount up again and this time with 1,3 cm ( rather radical ) but I have no more then enough clearance (+/- 4mm underneath).  The extra hight it took, i filled with underlay mend carpet and smoothened it out. Result is absolute stunning !

[NOTE] attaching of the bezel on this hight was also a real challenge ! because the screws needed to find the floor and the holes of the bezel it self. The screws must go through 3 layers of under laymend and stuff. I used a very long screw dryer from underneath to let the screw follow the screw dryer from underneath. It might get you angry, don't give into it :)





The Paint Job

The paint job,



Ofcourse, the paint job is a real important part of the build.
The paint needs to be good and also it needs to be a protector of all thats beneath.
For my plain jane sleeper only one color was possible. Wimbledon white !
A color that might suggest its suitable for marriage rides and slow cars.

before:







I decided not to go for bare metal or acid baths. The base was real good, straight and totally rust free.
The places that where bad where or replaced or stripped.
It had 2 bad places, the right hand rear trunk panel was rusted because of water and mud that could not leak out so it build up and rusted.
Also the driver side panel beneath the pedals was rusted because of a leaking gasket in the air in let.
Well, could have been much and much worse.
Fix it and move on !

 



The car was painted in the states with some ugly ass striping and other real bad coloring. well, no worries, it will all be white !
The part that where striped with stripped and primed with a real bonding first layer.. ( I'm not a painter )

 the front window was cracked, therefor it needed to be replaced





After

The Plain Jane Sleeper Plan !



My search went out for a car that was solid and had a good body to start with.
In may 2011 we found a car that match the description and was a good base for a project.
We decided to get the car to Holland and in august 2011 it stood in Roggel.

 The 1970 Mustang the way I got it... ugly basted !

The Plain Jane Sleeper,

What is a Sleeper ? A sleeper is a deceptively fast car that looks slow or stock on the outside while fast and very powerful at the traffic lights.



You might think, why Building a sleeper... ??  first of all and most important because I like it but secondly because most of the cars you see have simply to much and so overkill.
My mustang needed to be clean, to be smooth and with as little options as possible that are not of any influence on driving and safety. PLAIN JANE !
Now, I could have shaved that car with no door handles and all that stuff but no, this might endanger another point... it had to look stock original! A sleeper, looking stock and slow but it will surprise you when it hits the throttle.
I admit that an coupé would have been a better choice as going for the sleeper look, but I love the fastback so much that an coupé was out of the question, besides a sportsroof has an higher value and is more sought after then a coupé. 





What Jane does not have :

  • Spoilers
  • Scoops
  • Louvers
  • Antenna
  • Flip open tank
  • Dual exhaust valance panel ( bended below ) but will be replaced by boomtubes
  • Sport mirrors - 1 stock mirror left
  • Sport seats, it has stock seats
  • Fold down rear seat
  • Radio (extreme rare radio delete panel ! )
  • Clock
  • Deluxe interior
  • Mid console 
  • Normal brake pads ( see power brakes )
  • Air conditioning
Options and safety features it does have:

  • Power brakes
  • Power steering 
  • Very Very Rare Radio Delete panel !
  • Hidden Tach - Vacuum & Water temp meter in glove comp.
  • Manual Choke ( at least its there ) 
  • Radiator duct panel to force more cold air through the radiator.
The car came from factory with a 302 2V engine with a C4 automatic driven by a 2.79 open 8" rear.
Not realy the stuff that makes heads turns so the entire drive-train had to go. That was the idea from the start.


Transmission:
First we swapped the C4 for a 4 speed toploader with Hurst competition shifter. A build that took because of some defect new ordered parts almost 2 days, but was well worth the effort.
You might ask, why not a T5 or a 5 speed transmission... well, its not period and not oldskool enough ! I like the way they thought in the 70's. " shift as hard as you please, but don't break your arm "
I might do a 5 speed swap in the future, but for now the 4 speed will do the job just fine.





The 8" 2.79 rear end



The rear end:
The 8" rear was swapped for a 9" 28spl rear with a 3:50 traction loc.
The choice for a 3:50 was not made overnight. The RPM range around 60 mph is a point that makes choices difficult. I was thinking of a 3:91 but that would make it run around 3500 at 60 MPH, rather high.
 









Hubcaps: 
A nice wheel needs nice hubcaps and as you could have seen above, I choose for the the stock Ford Motor Company hub caps. The problem was that almost all of the hubcap sets where damaged, dented or even bended so it took a while to find a set. I wind up buying 7 sets for making one perfect sets. In the end I found a set of NOS dishes for the WOW factor ! See the wheel and tire links for the rest of the wheel story.











SAFETY FIRST !
As you might know the first generation mustang was know for a lot good facts but also for a design flaw. The fuel tank that was located in the trunk and made also the trunk floor. In a rear end collision the chance of a fuel tank burst was very high. There for we decided to make a tank armor.
A 4mm thick steel was bended in for to fit the tank. I decided to pat the inside with isolation to prevent damp. The tank armor provides safety, a stagger rear and some extra weight on the rear end.



It is all in the details...

In my opinion, the beauty of a car is all in the small details. You can build a car with any after market part and steel the show on you local meetings. Well, you could ! And hey, many people would get a hard on of all that chrome and (ton) bling bling crap ( sorry for saying ). But if you start looking at cars you might find that the ordinary looking car has sometimes more to give then catches the eye.
If you take a look at my plain jane you might find a couple of cool details that you would have missed when you walked past it to blind your eyes with the next chrome bucket.
The car has a couple of cool decals from the 60's, no stickers but only the original waterslide decals that would have been on there in the 60s and 70s.
Also, if you look in you might find a choke cable... but it has an electrical choke ??? yes... like I said, its all in the details !





Also, under tha hood... you can find an steering oil cooler that was original to the BOSS 302 with power steering. Does it need it for "normal" street use... ? No !! Does it look cool ? Yes !!
Then, if you look a little higher you might find a Rev Limiter, also... this one you would fine on an original Boss 302. But, I have to say that an original working REV limiter would go on Ebay for more then 1000 dollars so I choose for a non functional limiter that has the looks, so again.... details.




Is my car made to look like a Boss ? No... not at all. I don't like clones or fakes or copy's from other cool cars although I have to admit that the concept of a plain jane caught my attention in a article I ones read. What I want is my car to look the way it could have looked in the 70s and do my best to give it that cool oldskool race look.
So... back to the meeting. On an average meeting, you might find that 9 out of 10 people would stay looking at that car with the big wheels, the customs mirror and that flakey paint job that flickers in the sunlight and the chrome valve covers that make you reach for your sunglasses. But normally, the longer you look the less you see :D
the 1 out of 10, or less, that stops to look at this type of car will respect the oldskool way and will find out that the longer you look the more you'll see.


Here a picture of the seldom seen radio delete panel / radio block of plate !
Why need a radio if the biggest stereo is between the shock towers ?
I was looking for a NOS panel for over a year and just when I thought I would never find one, I found a very nice ( like I said NOS ) panel on the almighty Ebay. Of course  I had to go very deep in the pocket to get it but once your hooked...